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Glace Brings French Ice Cream and Gluten-Free Cones to the Upper East Side

This week, the Carnegie Hill section of the Upper East Side is being treated to a new scoop shop. In the space that housed Noglu, the gluten-free bakery imported from Paris by Eli Zabar now a few doors south, Mr. Zabar’s son Sasha is opening Glace (French for ice cream) on Friday. Its roster of inventive flavors is all gluten-free, including when cones and cookie bits are involved. The bright shop trimmed in pink, with some seating indoors and more outside, will offer a rotating menu that includes vanilla, Sicilian pistachio, banoffee, cold brew, matcha and, based on the Good Humor pop, toasted almonds. Raspberry and orange creamsicle soft serve will be dispensed; sorbets will include yuzu, grapefruit and pineapple; and cold refreshers like a yuzu-cherry spritz and a shakerato will be available, along with milk shakes. And if you’re in the mood for something more elaborate, there will be sundaes, an Eton Mess, ice cream profiteroles and baked alaska. Ice cream cakes can be ordered to go.

Glace, 1266 Madison Avenue (91st Street), 347-502-6445.

The dining detritus that archaeologists discover, call them leftovers, usually leads to a better understanding of ancient civilizations and their habits. This week the Penn Museum at the University of Pennsylvania inaugurates an indoor and outdoor exhibit about food and drink with artifacts like carbonized fruits and nuts from Switzerland; strawberry seeds more than 6,000 years old; vestiges of winemaking from the Early Bronze Age; and ancient potatoes, beans and corn from Peru. Plants related to the exhibits are on view in an interior garden and outdoors on the museum grounds.

“Ancient Food & Flavor,” from Saturday through fall, 2024 (except Mondays), Penn Museum, 3260 South Street (South 33rd Street), Philadelphia, Penn., 215-898-4000, penn.museum.

Le Moné, the New York company that makes a line of Meyer lemon-based aperitifs, has introduced a new one for summer: Meyer lemon and cucumber. It doesn’t take a professional behind the bar to figure out what to do with this lively, lemony, cucumber-accented spirit. For an easy, warm-weather “cumbertini,” combine it with a gin like the cucumber-y Hendrick’s, one part to three or four; or serve it with tonic, as the Portuguese do with white port.

Le Moné Meyer Lemon Apéritif with Cucumber, $35, drinklemone.com.

How about something new for the grill? Campo Grande, a company that imports cuts of succulent, dry-cured and fresh Iberico pork from Spain, offers a grilling assortment that contains an uncured flank steak, boneless loin roast, two-pound hunk of coppa (neck meat) and St. Louis-style ribs, nearly seven pounds of meat, $149. Because this is Iberico, it can be cooked medium or medium-rare. Slice the seared flank steak thin, perhaps for tacos; slowly grill or roast the loin, or slice it and grill individual slabs; smoke the coppa or roast it; and you know how to handle ribs. The cuts are also sold individually, though the ribs won’t be available until late summer. The meat comes frozen.

BBQ Grillmaster Box, $149, eatcampogrande.com.

Among the hundreds of mango varieties grown throughout the tropics, there is one from Colombia that made its debut in the United States. Called a Sugar Baby mango, it’s about three inches long with a deep blush of gold edible skin and suitable for munching out of hands as you might a plum or a peach. Like other mangoes, it does have an annoying pit center stage; the best way to slice it is vertically, as close to the pit as can be managed. These mangoes, a variety called mango de azucar, are grown in several countries — mostly in the Caribbean by Goldenberry Farms, which also exports them. The company had trademarked the name Sweet Sugar Mango.

Sweet Sugar Mangoes, $11.99 per pound (three to four mangoes), Butterfield Market, 1150 Madison Avenue (85th Street), 1114 Lexington Avenue (78th Street), butterfieldmarket.com.

The challenges of rising from a dishwasher to top chef, alongside the story of a rural Mexican family that migrated to and settled in the United States, are detailed in “The Migrant Chef: The Life and Times of Lalo García” by Laura Tillman. For her compelling, well-written biography of the chef and restaurateur EduardoGarcía, known as Lalo, the author spent five years reporting, researching and traveling. Mr. Garcia is a celebrity chef in Mexico but his name does not have the currency of Enrique Olvera, the internationally renowned Mexican chef and Mr. García’s mentor and previous employer. But her subject was no mere kitchen grunt: From childhood she showed a keen, even uncommon knack for preparing food that others readily recognized. Threaded through his story and that of his family is in-depth information that broadens the scope of the book: Ms. Tillman discusses the history of Mexican food, farmer conditions in the United States, Mexican politics and earthquakes, and the inequities and challenges of the restaurant business. The book has only two photos of Mr. Garcia: One, on the cover, shows him from the back; the other, inside, shows him as a toddler.

“The Migrant Chef: The Life and Times of Lalo García” by Laura Tillman (WW Norton, $30).

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